I found small 5' x 8' trailers that ran anywhere from $750 to $1,200. Northern Tool had a North Star Trailer for $750 that seemed pretty good.
However, they also had a 4' x 8' Ironton "Folding" Trailer that really caught my attention. Aside from the fact the trailer was $380, it caught my attention because I could fold it up and roll it into a corner of my garage. A regular trailer needs a place to stay. I actually already have a 5' x 8' enclosed HaulMark Trailer that is used in our family bicycle repair business. We have to keep that at an offsite facility for $50 a month. I really didn't want to spend more storage money on a motorcycle trailer, so I really got excited about the Ironton Foldup.
Obviously the Ironton Foldup needs a surface, which is a $25 sheet of three quarter inch plywood; both trailer options needed a spare tire. I bought the Ironton Foldup.
Unfortunately, I ran into a snag. None of the three boxes that the trailer came in had the Certificate of Origin, which is necessary to get the trailer registered. I'll cut this long-story down, Northern Tool couldn't help with that problem and I was left to return it. Since they weren't willing to assure me that the C of O was in one of the other packages, I wasn't about to lug another trailer home and have the same experience.
The good news is that, in short, I found another similar product and it was actually a much better product that the Ironton Foldup. Harbor Freight, of all places, offered the HaulMaster #62647 Folding Trailer for the same $380. Structurally it was very similar to the Ironton, but the the HaulMaster had a lot of better features:
- M-Rated (81 mph) 530mm Wheels/Tires, compared to the 55 mph 480mm Tires on the Ironton.
- A 1,720 load rating, compared to the 1,170 load rating of the Ironton (largely due to the better tires).
- A much more stable tow bar configuration and a better coupler.
I'm sorta glad I had the snafu with the Ironton. Oh, the C of O was included in a window envelope on the outside of one of the two boxes of parts.
Assembly was extensive, although not difficult. There were over 80 bolts and all of them had the nuts had nylon security rings! That's good, but those things are much harder to turn. I whipped out my Sears Crafstman air wrench that made assembly go a lot faster.
The only problem that I ran into was the brackets that mount the two tow bars to the frame weren't manufactured properly. All the brackets are is about 12 inches of angle iron, but the holes were drilled like they go on the same side. The holes need to be different on either side as shown in the second photo below.
So I had to drill out new holes on one of the brackets. This problem isn't apparent until you get them installed and the tow bars connected. I saw that one of the tow bars was crooked. In fact, there's a review on HF by a guy that mentions this problem. I put a review in HF and they suppressed it. I guess they don't mind people saying the thing is cockeyed but don't want to hear from someone who knows what the problem is.
Anyway, that was the only major issue. Like I said assembly was quite extensive and I encountered a great amount of difficulty getting the darn thing to level out. My only advice is patience goes a long way to get you to where you want and need to be.
So the next step was installing the surface. You can buy 4' x 4' pieces of three-quarter inch plywood at Home Depot or some supply stores. My ACE Hardware had some pieces. I've set it up so I can use plain bolts, eye-bolts for tie-down points or, as shown in the photo below, a combination of both. All surface mounting points use wing nuts for easy on-and-off!
I also installed four D-Rings, 2 in front and 2 in the rear (installed later than this photo).
The motorcycle carrier with the chock and the ramp are from my hitch receiver carrier...I've got them doing double duty. I'm lucky to have the carrier, but an alternative would be one of those cheap $18 M/C Wheel Chocks at Cycle Gear.
I did a 35 mile test ride before loading the motorcycle and everything seemed to work fine. Then I loaded up the KLR650 and did the 35 mile ride all over again. The trailer was stable and tracked perfectly.
I also installed a tool box and bought a spare tire that I carry in the back of my Rav4.
Now, if you recall, the whole thing that got me focused on this trailer was that it folds up. Here's a photo of the trailer folded up. Just so you know, it does fold up with the plywood surface installed. However, I wanted the little extra light from the window in my garage so I take them off. As mentioned above, I have them installed with bolts and wing nuts for easy assembly and disassembly.
So the real question is how it did on the highway and up in North Carolina. Well, I headed out from Tampa to North Carolina last Thursday...605 total miles, about 10.5 hours. Then the same back on Sunday; over 1,200 miles.
On the Interstates, I kept the speed between 70-75 mph, which is pretty good for a towing situation. The trailer did fine on the highways and never made a peep.
If you've ever been to the Smoky Mountains in North Carolina, you know how curvy the roads are as they wind up and down the mountains. I pulled the trailer along those curvy roads at legal speeds or slightly higher. Keeping a reasonable speed in the corners, it wasn't long before I totally stopped worrying about a trailer tip.
On the way back, I did have some carnage. The left rear tail light assembly and license plate bracket fell off. While the taillight stayed attached by its wires, and smashed along the highway, my license plate was lost somewhere between Robbinsville, North Carolina and Atlanta, Georgia. The replacement tail light was $7 at Advance Auto Parts. The DMV charged me $25 for the replacement license plate. I did pay attention to most of the critical torques on the trailer during the trip, but I apparently missed those. My bad.
Overall, I'm very pleased with this Harbor Freight Folding trailer. Essentially, I got a nice little hauler that can handle highway travel for a total investment of well under $500.
Here are some other thoughts:
The Spare Tire was $59.99 at Harbor Freight. Some states require a spare.
The max psi for the tires is 80, which generally is how trailer tires are inflated. I only inflated to 60 psi, because 80 just seemed a little high for ply tires (they're 6 ply). That's just my judgement; ymmv.
If one wanted to go with a larger tire/wheel, the spindles are 25mm and the length was 85mm.
Several reviews on HF indicate that the assembly instructions are poor. I didn't come away from the job with that impression at all. The instructions are available on their website in pdf if someone wanted to review them in advance.
If one wanted to go with a larger tire/wheel, the spindles are 25mm and the length was 85mm.
Several reviews on HF indicate that the assembly instructions are poor. I didn't come away from the job with that impression at all. The instructions are available on their website in pdf if someone wanted to review them in advance.
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